The Walk
"REVISITED"
The
circular walk around the conservation area may be joined at any point, however,
the most appropriate place to start the walk is probably Forge Garage >1<
Although
nothing of the original building remains, as its name suggests there was a forge
or smithy on the site of the present Forge Garage. The predominance of horse
drawn transport and the presence of so many farms in the Village meant there was
a steady trade in shoeing horses and repairing farm machinery. The advent of
motor transport, however, almost inevitably caused its closure and conversion to
a garage and filling station.
You
will notice the remains of 18th century stone cottages at the rear of the former
"Ship Inn" now "The Albion Inn" car park >2< A
typical feature of the cottages would have been
a half door, which kept the children and dogs in
or out whilst allowing ventilation and a good draught for the coal fire.
Opposite
the Albion Inn is an unusual canted house >3< Originally this was
the Salutation Inn which was 'angled off to enable trams to negotiate the sharp
bend when their route was extended to Ryhope from Sunderland in 1905. If you
look to the top of the gable you will notice a flag pole ring where the
patriotic owner, Harry Bell, flew his Union Jack.
Town
End Farm >4< still exhibits the farm buildings that were once
typical of those that surrounded the Green. The farm house was originally of
stone, built by the Church Commissioners who own much of the land about the
Village. A new brick skin was added to bring the building in line with the
fashion of the day and thus to increase its status in the Village. Through the
gates you will see the original barns and byres. The variety of stone used to
build the walls would suggest that the stone was sought from the nearby beach.
lf you look back to Forge Garage you can compare the view today, to that of the
turn of the century, illustrated below.
A view of Ryhope in the early 1900's
from the south side of the Green
The
Village water trough >5< , although not in working order today, would have
provided fresh water for passing horses, sheep and cattle as well as travellers.
Sheep and cattle were once part of the everyday scene grazing the common land of
the Green. A local boy was paid a penny a day to prevent animals straying down
the road to the beach.
Down
the road, past the modern terraced houses to your left is the site of the
Vicarage built in 1828. The railway ran behind the Vicarage and on the 19th
August 1889 a passenger train, unable to negotiate the sharp bend, ran off the
rails. Shortly after the accident the Railway Company purchased the Vicarage and
extensive alterations were made to re‑align the tracks across the Vicarage
grounds.
Turn
left at Ryhope Beach Road and walk towards the railway bridges >6< which
were built as part of the railway alterations. The interesting “skew”
brickwork in the arch of the first bridge was required to accommodate the
curvature of the track which once supported, the North East Railway. The second
bridge supported the Londonderry (Seaham and Sunderland) Railway and the L. S.
& S.R. plaque can still be, seen on the seaward side. If you have time you
can continue walking along Ryhope Beach Road which meanders down to the beach,
once a popular bathing spot. Considerable finds, of Mesolithic (circa 8000 BC)
flints have been found on the cliff lops here between Ryhope and Sunderland
suggesting that an early settlement may have been located nearby. However the
site, if it did exist, has probably disappeared, along with the land itself as a
result of serious coastal erosion, the effects of which are still being
experienced today.
Retrace
your footsteps to Seaham Road. In the vicinity on your left, just before
reaching the junction >7< was once the Soap Well which was one of about
five wells recorded in Ryhope. The Soap Well was named because of the softness
of the water which was in great demand by housewives for washing clothes. Turn
left at Seaham Road and walk under the railway bridge >8< which is part
of the 1889 reconstructions. Follow the road past the site of Ryhope East
Station >9<, cross the road and return over the footbridge which once
linked the platforms of Ryhope West Station >10<. The two rival railway
companies insisted upon two independent stations until 1900 when they were
amalgamated. Few towns or villages could boast the luxury of two railway
stations. As you turn left into Robson Place you will notice the limestone wall
adjacent to the street which marks the original road to Seaham>11<.. After
the rail accident the level crossing at the end of the street was considered
hazardous and was bricked up. A new road was constructed which detoured
underneath the railway lines. The Railway Inn took over the site some time after
1858 when the first station opened in Ryhope.
Bear
left into the Village. The local authority housing which stands at the corner of
the Green>12< occupies the site of Ryhope Hall. The Hall had an unusual
brick tower which has been variously described. One story says that it was added
after harsh words were exchanged between the lady of the Hall and her friend who
lived in the manor house next door, now Coqueda Hall. The lady of the manor
house built a high brick wall to demonstrate her displeasure and to stop her
neighbour looking into her property. Not to be out done, the lady in Ryhope Hall
built a tower, so that she could still look over the wall and spy on her
neighbour.
Rear
View of Ryhope Hall Demolished in the1960's
In the
early 19th Century Ryhope was a resort for sea bathing and the Hall became a
Coaching Inn and hotel where gentry used to stay. The coming of the railway
killed off the coaching trade, and ultimately The Hall came into the Streatfield
family, owners of Ryhope Colliery. After a ruinous fire, the Hall was finally
demolished in the 1960's.
Follow
the road until you come to the Farmers' Club>13, the name
reflects Ryhope's roots in farming and behind and
to the side of the club used to stand the cattle market and its pens.
The
Village Green )>14< was the heart of the old Village and was once
administered by a local official, the Reeve, who was responsible for letting the
Green and ensuring the good conduct of those using it. Circuses, fairs and
gypsies camped here bringing pleasure and sometimes trouble to the locals. The
Reeve lived in a cottage on the, western side of the Green, which dated from the
17th century. The office of The Reeve was abolished with the advent of the
Parish Council.
The
Reeves cottage cleared before the First World War
The
memorial to the dead of two world wars is the focal point of the Village Green.
Notice the ''Barton V. C. " plaque at the base of the memorial to Pilot
Officer Barton 578 squadron R.A.F. Burn, awarded posthumously for
"unsurpassed courage arid devotion to duty. " During a night time
bombing raid on Nuremberg, Barton's Halifax Bomber was attacked causing damage
to the engine, the inter‑com and the bomber's guns. Barton devised a
system of light signals to keep in touch with his crew, however these were
misinterpreted arid three crew members abandoned the aircraft. Despite this
Barton and his remaining crew carried out the mission successfully. After a
difficult journey home the aircraft was fired upon by ground defences as it
approached the North East Coast. Barton flew back to sea and signalled "S.O.S".
By now the badly damaged aircraft was flying too low for the crew to abandon it
successfully the aircraft turned inland and, struggling to avoid Ryhope Village,
finally crashed into an end terrace house, killing a miner.
Three crew members were injured, but survived,. Barton however
was pronounced dead later that
day in Ryhope General Hospital.
Whilst
standing on the Green you may encounter the Ryhope Ghost. The apparition has
been seen by various people on different occasions and descriptions tally in
almost every detail. It is said to resemble a small sturdy man who wears a black
skull cap and carries a pick and candle as lie glides silently across the Green.
However strong the wind or however wet, the candle still burns with the same
steady light. Reaching the centre of the Green he places, the candle on the
ground and then with a loud wailing noise begins to dig. Eventually it fades
downwards into a self ‑ made grave. Spectators have said that for at least
half ant hour after there is a strong smell of burning in the air. Some people
declare that it is the ghost of an old soldier who will haunt the Village until
his name is inscribe on the war memorial
Across
the road there are two examples of early 19th century limestone cottages
>15<. To the rear there would have been a variety of smaller cottages and
outbuildings.
High
Farm and high Farm Cottage >16< are further examples of the farm buildings
surrounding the Green which
were
originally built in stone, then clad in brick around 1910 by the Church
Commissioners.
Walk up
to the pedestrian crossing and cross to the attractive Rent Office>17<.
This building was erected between 1826 and 1828 as the Village Church for
farmers and farm' workers. It was built as a daughter Chapel to St Michael's in
Bishopwearmouth which was no longer capable of serving as a Parish Church to the
wide spread and expanding congregation. The, Church was said to have cost little
as local farmers contributed a day's labour and transport in turn to bring stone
from the beach for its construction. When St Paul's was built in 1870,
some quarter mile to the north,
the chapel became the Village school. Take a look behind the building in
the small burial ground where you will see a number of tombstones as well as the
playground and gateway of the old school.
The busy
traffic through Ryhope makes it difficult to imagine that the site of the
traffic island >18< was once the Village pond. The pond was quite
extensive and is said to have flooded the school house and other cottages
whenever a heavy downpour of rain occurred; it survived until the turn, of the
century. Surveys of the site suggest that its construction was artificial and
was designed as a fishpond for the' "Wilderness" hotel. The green
round about the pond was used is a play ground by children from the nearby
school.
Cross the road and proceed northwards to St Paul’s Chapel. The design of the original church building, as shown in the illustration below taken from Ebdy's sketches, was considered too costly. The church actually built between 1869 ‑ 1873 is much simplified, nevertheless it was ambitious and deliberately innovative to attract the wealthier residents of the Village The coping stones of the churchyard wall are salvaged stone 'chairs' taken from the Colliery railway. Some still show the holes where the iron spikes were secured.
St.
Paul's as it might have been
Return
down Ryhope street and turn into Cliff Road, an original back lane to the
Village which provided rear access into farm buildings. Church Ward to your
right >20< has changed little since the 1900's and is typical of the
passages which would have led into the Village. ,
To your
left is 'The Wilderness" >21< and beyond this “The Chestnuts
". Both buildings have their origins in farming and it is reputed that The
“Wilderness" was frequented by the Bishop of Durham and the Earls of
Lumley and Scarborough as a summer retreat to take advantage of the nearby sea
bathing. A brewery is said. to have existed. to the west of the house, which was
probably a small stone out-house brewing for the needs of the residents.
Continue
down Cliff Road and turn left at the main road where you will see on either side
the abutments of the old mineral railway bridge >22< which demolished in
1980. The railway carried coal from Ryhope and Silksworth Collieries to the Wear
via the N.E.R. line for export and was in operation for 90 years.
Retrace your steps to Ryhope Village and you will return to your starting point.
ACKNOWLEDGEMENT
OF MR J.N.PACE